[Climbing] (08/16/2020) Mile High Club (5.10a, 7 pitches, Grade III) @ Morning Star Peak in North Cascades, WA

Route Details 

  • Mountain Project: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/112553808/mile-high-club
  • Difficulty: 5.10a, 7 pitches, Grade III

Report

  • Chris and I woke up at the crack of dawn and departed Seattle around 5:30AM. We got to Sunrise Mile Trailhead around 7:15AM
  • Approach
    • The approach was definitely not the easiest climbing approach I've done :-) It was steep at first then we crossed a couple talus / boulder fields. It was a beautiful approach though - we were walking in the valley with great ridgelines around us. It was slightly confusing as to when to depart the trail get to Morning Star Peak base. It was a left turn right before Headlee pass but we couldn't really spot any obvious cairns. We just used our Gaia maps and ended up sorting it out in a few minutes or so though. All in all, the approach hike took us 2 hours - ~2.3K elevation gain @ 2.5 miles.
  • Climbing
    • Climbing was great! All pitches felt pretty easy and smooth. Chris and I swung leads quite efficiently and onsighted every pitch. It was a bit loose in the last couple pitches but nothing too bad. Approach felt harder for this climb ;) 
  • Descent
    • We did 7 rappels with a 70M. We might have got to the wrong anchor around the rappel #5; we rapped to a tree with a sling but did not find a ring, so we did a slightly-sketchy downclimb to an anchor. Then around the last rappel, I missed the base of the climb by about 20 feet to the left, so I had to do some slightly sketchy one-handed 20ft traverse to the right (while still being on rappel, one hand on the third hand..). Perhaps need to get the descent beta sorted out before checking out Beyond Redlining :) On top of Pitch 5

On top of pitch 5..

Chris at the top of Morning Star Peak!

Some wildflowers on the approach..

Morning star peak

Snow almost gone from the mountain (We did not have to walk on snow at all)

View from the top of Pitch 6

Comments

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