[Climbing] 2022 Climbing Training / Goals


Year Outline  
  • Dec - mid Jan
    • Dedicated 'off season' training (https://www.climbstrong.com/training-plan/off-season-strength-and-power-logical-progression-2/)
  • mid Jan - mid Feb
    • Performance focused training / climbing 
  • mid Feb - rest of February
    • No climbing, Mostly skiing
  • March 
    • Gym access only 
    • Dedicated 4 week Boulder based training?
  • First half of april
    • Outdoor route climbing only 
  • Mid April - May (1.5 months)
    • Primary focus: Bouldering-based training. Project boulders 1 day on the weekend. 
      • Secondary focus: Route sessions (half day) if dry.
    • Boulder outside (all day): 1 day per week 
    • Route outside (half day) 1 day per week if dry
    • Training days: 1-2 days per week 
    • Total days..
      • Total boulder outside days (all day): 12-24 days
      • Total route outside days (half): ~8 days
      • Total training days: 12-24 days 
  • June - Aug (3 months)
    • Primary Focus: Projecting routes outside.
      • Secondary focus: Some supplemental training
    • Route climb (half day): 1-2 days mid week
    • Route climb (all day): 1 day per week
    • Training days: 1-2 days per week
    • Total days..
      • Total route outside days (half): 12 - 24 days
      • Total route outside days (all day): 12 days 
      • Total training days: 12-24 days
  • Aug - Mid Sep (1.5 months)
    • Primary Focus: "!!Train (power/strength)!!"
      • Secondary focus: Alpine climbing, Work on trad..
    • Route climb (half day): 1 days mid week, omit if alpine climbing feels too hard on the weekend
    • Training days: 2 days per week
    • Alpine climbing: Weekends 
    • Total days..
      • Total route outside days (half): 12 days max
      • Total alpine days: 12 - 24 days 
      • Total training days:  24 days 
  • Mid Sep - Mid Nov (2 months)
    • Primary Focus: Projecting routes outside (1 month in mexico?) 
      • Secondary focus: some supplemental training.
    • Route climb (half day): 2 days mid week
    • Route climb (all day): 1-2 day per week
    • Training days: 0-1 days per week
    • Total days..
      • Total route outside days (half): 16 days (half in exits, half in mexico?)
      • Total route outside days (all day): 8-16 days 
      • Total training days: 0-8 days
For Projecting.. 
  • Total "Exit" half sessions: ~46 sessions
  • Total "All day" route sessions: ~24 sessions 
  • Total "All day" boulder sessions: 12-24 sessions

Outdoor Route Goals  


Progress Goals 
  • Staying injury free
  • Increasing strength
    • Incremental progress on max hangs (goal: 150% BW by end of year)
    • Incremental progress on weighted pull ups (goal: 135% BW by end of year)
    • Bodyweight strength goals
      • pistol squat, back bend, push up progressions..
  • Nutrition
    • Eat frequently; meal timing, constant blood sugar levels 
    • Performance nutrition -> be more informed
    • 120g protein min every day 
Trips
- 1 week stay in Squamish (End of Aug)
- 1 week stay in Ten Sleep (End of June)
- 3 separate weekend trips to Smith (1 in Feb, 1 mid April, 1 in early May)
- 1 trip to RR (? need to plan )
- 1 month in Mexico (mid Oct- mid Nov) 



---------- ARCHIVE ----------



WA Route Inspirations
  • Sport
    • 12+
      • Index: 5.12 Index Ave (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Index: Soul on Ice (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Exit 32: Technoriginie (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Exit 32: Bust the Rhythm (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Exit 32: Psychosomatic (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Exit 32: Californicator (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Exit 38: Blade Runner (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Elwha: Leave it to Cleaver (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Mt. Erie: Han's 5.10 (link)
        • Ticks: 0
    • 12b
      • Exit 32: Hang it out to dry (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Exit 32: Digitalis (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Exit 32: Viagro (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Elwha: All-View Motel (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Index: Roadside Floral Curtain (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Exit 38: The Goblet (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Upper Skagit Valley: 12c for a day (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Vantage: Peeing with a Boner (link)
        • Ticks: 0
    • 12a
      • Elwha: San Ber'dino (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Index: Slapshot (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Index: Raggedy Andy (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Exit 32: Orgasmatron (link
        • Ticks: 0
      • Exit 38: Rude Road (link)
        • Ticks: 1
      • Upper Skagit Valley: Shiny Yellow Crane (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Vantage: Stemmin' Ms (link)
        • Ticks: 0
    • 11+
      • Index: Climax Control (link)
        • Ticks: 1
      • Index: Wham (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Index: Albinestone (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Exit 38: Hidden Dragon (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Exit 38: My Sorrow Bleeds With Such Delight (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Upper Skagit Valley: Serendipity (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Leavenworth: Das Musak (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Leavenworth: Rock n' Rattle (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Vantage: After Shock (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Vantage: The Crippler (link
        • Ticks: 1
    • 11-
      • Elwha: It Goes (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Index: Leave My Face Alone (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Index: Hairway to Stephen (link)
        • Ticks: 0
        • "Just have to jump if you're under 5'10"
      • Index: Spineless (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Exit 38: La Vida Locamotive (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Exit 38: Free Radical (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Exit 38: Primus (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Upper Skagit Valley: Luna Park (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Leavenworth: Tubbing at Der Ritterhoff (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Leavenworth: Toothless (link)
        • Ticks: 0
    • 10+
      • TBD
  • Boulder
    • V7
      • Index: Banking on the Pig (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Index: Flying Honey Badger (link)
        • Good for when river is low 
        • Ticks: 0
      • Gold bars: Red Rover (link)
        • Short approach (5 star boulder)
        • Short-ish climb (good for projecting alone)
        • Ticks: 0
    • V6
      • Index: Leggo my Ego (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Gold Bar: Five Star Arete (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Leavenworth: The Hueco Crimper (link)
        • Ticks: 0
    • V5
      • Gold Bar: Samurai (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Gold Bar: Road to Zion (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Leavenworth: Footless Traverse (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Leavenworth: Sheniqua (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Mt. Erie: The Gates of Ekron (link)
        • Ticks: 0
    • V4
      • Leavenworth: The Physical (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Leavenworth: Feel the Pinch (link)
        • Ticks: 0
      • Leavenworth: Crimp, Crimp, Slap, Throw (link)
        • Ticks: 0

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